Sounded the siren in the small town of Baños De Agua Santa, informing about the danger of eruption of Tungurahua. The warning is posted in two languages: Spanish and Quechua …

Sounds of Ecuador to listen better in headphones. This 3D sounds.
Do not forget to include subtitles.

At night we go closer to the volcano, to consider this dangerous idea. Flying fireflies, frogs croaking, and at 7 kilometers from our tent rustles volcano. Sometimes it rattles, sometimes quieter. But the worst thing is when he calms down.
After a lull in the volcano as though explodes! Very well seen as flying stones and lava. The sky is illuminated by flashes, and the slopes of bottled bright orange lava. We should run away from there.

Transferred to the capital of Ecuador, Quito. There are people in the streets protesting at the rally and asked the Government to deal with the problems in the country.
Out there in the streets shouting "4 for 1 dollar" sellers, because the national currency is the American dollar.
Card players there in Central Park Nestled next to players and actively playing for money.
There regulirovshhicy whistles to attract the attention of drivers and show where they go.

Our next item-the town of Tena. Passes machine scavengers. Throughout Ecuador garbage trucks can be heard from afar and ahead of time to go out on the street with a bag of garbage.
The Zoo roam in enclosures, tapirs, ostriches, coati, the Galapagos tortoise. But hear you now local parrots.

Back in Quito. Guy passes by us, carrying a long metal rod.
We sit down to dinner in the same Park where Ecuadorians playing cards. For lunch, soup with crab. We give out a plate and a wooden hammer, so that you can get crab meat.
Sellers and clicked continue their workdays.
In the evening we sit down on the bus and go home. At each stop with the clatter and noise drops heavy metal ramp.

Let's hear together.

Cusco and Arequipa-two important not only in the region of the Inca Empire, not only the current state of Peru, but also in the way every traveler or tourist, presuming to know this country. Today from Cuzco in Arekipu can be reached very quickly, so without a dozen 500 km on a good paved road. You could even say that the way this very fast, too fast. In a country such as Peru, with a probability of 99 percent, you could find an alternative to rapid, good and boring roads. Just need to get off the asphalt and a fascinating study of unpaved roads.

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To get from Cuzco in Arekipu, we decided to borrow a small piece of salt Inca path, which stretches nearly from the Sacred Valley to the Pacific coast. A thousand years ago, this way only do runners chaski, yes porters food. Today, of course, there's the road. Many of them are very old, nearly abandoned (and sometimes abandoned), and some are so new that it is not marked on the map. What unites them all is the absence of asphalt. Collect all these pieces of the roads in one route has proved to be difficult, but we have learned only on the ground.

Here we have put several of its high-altitude records-four pass over 5 thousand meters. Sometimes our way just disappeared (despite a strong line on the map). Motorcycle Elm in the sand, rocks and stones to cross the peremeshival River. Where expensive nowadays used only by herdsmen alpacas, rims linked soft dust whipped hundreds of times by thousands of feet of these soft, similar to huge toys, animals. Along the way we met Andean foxes and chinchillas relatives-viskachi.

We passed tiny village, consisting of only a few houses. Some of them had never seen foreigners, and one still opposite the Catholic Church sacred uanka stone flaunts that reminds you of that old beliefs here have not been pushed out to the end. We had waited out the storm in a closed Café in which we allowed out of kindness-to hide from the wind. Spend the night at an altitude of ambulance building intended for al'pakeros and miners, try Alpaca for the first time in his life and peek into the abyss right with a motorcycle.

As a result, our way-on first coats, became longer than asphalt not only at 400 kilometers, but almost a week of time, as well as a thousand and one impression anymore.

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Peru today is far from the title of the most developed country of the continent. " Peru-poor country and rich at the same time. And the wealth of its are innumerable, despite neblagoustroennost', and sometimes, even poverty.

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Travel across the country with incredible historical heritage-it's like a little life in life. The only choice is to stay, sometimes accidentally, in a tiny village, and the stones begin to tell their story. Shortly after seeing your interest, you begin to talk and locals taking their narrations on the torn pages of history. After you're flabbergasted, you collect evidence bit by bit. But there, on the spot, all of this still-life, although it has been more than 500 years since the last highlights.

So it happened with us many times on our way to Peru. But special impression village Akira, in which we had to stay overnight because of thunderstorms and rain, razmyvshego dirt roads. We came to Akira already before dawn. In the dark it is no different from the medium-sized villages, where on the main square in the evening, the locals gather to eat soup, antikuchos and drink tea from grasses. The only thing we see is a good temper and radushnost' inhabitants. The same morning in the hotel room (with Tigers on blankets) seemed low mountains around the village, mud streets inside and raz'ezzhennaja clay after yesterday's rain everywhere. One object in the usual rustic landscape still going all out of the picture. Free-standing rock-right in the Centre of the village. Awesome and very strange.

Cost to take a course on this rock, Akira started to tell his story. Too many historical monuments, for such a small village: Baroque colonial church of San Pedro de Akira 17 century, the Palace of San Juan de Jakua, ruins of settlements and bellicose Akira Huari culture, and finally, the sacred uanka-rock-tombs with niches-transformed conquistadors to court, prison and execution site. These lands once were housed right "at hand" the great Inca Empire, only seventy miles from Cuzco. Still, until the arrival of the conquest, belonged to another of the powerful Wari culture, which conquered the local tribes. The sacred rock Sakiya Kaka was used before the arrival of the Spaniards, as an object of worship. Especially revered dead residents of mummified and seated in seating positions in natural niche, paying the face outwards so that the elders and after his death looked at their land, remaining witnesses all events. The Spaniards, treacherously stolen all burials, throwing a bone to the outside beneath the feet. Later in these niches until the 20th century were holding prisoners. With the conquistadors came the Inquisition, in which local residents died on this rock by the thousands in the worst agony.

The official date of the founding of the city by the Spanish still not installed. About-this is the second half of the 16 century. The surroundings were unbelievable Akira is rich in gold and silver, in addition to the Spaniards, the village became a convenient collection of taxes and tributes at the entrances to the great city of Cusco. In the 17-18 centuries was started and completed the construction of the massive Temple of San Pedro de Akira. Inside and outside of the building is decorated with fine carving, imitating paradise garden. Here, birds and animals made slaves-Indians by European sketches, still look at us with sad faces and personalities.

Crossing such places where the poor modern life shows traces of a great and tragic history, where almost every home grown flies the Rainbow flag, you if you become a part of this world, and it certainly becomes a part of you.

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To get to the Pacific coast in the dry desert and the fertile valley of the Inca's sacred, to overcome the Highlands of the Western Cordillera of the Andes. The path of Iki in Cusco is a continuous rise. But the Cordillera in these places is for the most part an extensive plateau, but because the sharp streamers along the way. The road goes up the unusual — almost always right. To the sky. There seems to be directly under it, begins the same Peruvian Pampa. Hidden treasure, at an altitude of four to five thousand meters. Here in permanent cold (even in summer the temperature can drop below zero) in the diluted air filled with spiky sunlight, amazing life. Here people live.

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People live mainly in breeding alpacas, but there is something else, like a good tale. In the Pampa still inhabit the huge population of vicunas. Several thousand years ago the local culture, later important incaic Empire realized that kill vicunas for meat-not a good idea. Much more valuable and more useful brings these vicunas wool. By the way, products of their wool were so soft, light and warm, that use them might only the highest levels of society. When inkah, vicunas wool could oblachat'sja only the Emperor and members of his family. During this time, separating them and us is just something a couple of thousand years, there have been few changes. Still, vicunas wool is estimated to be thousands of dollars and afford clothes out of it may not be many. But not even this fact is interesting, but how to extract the wool.

Once a year, in spring-summer before in local villages hosts festivals and holidays of vicunas wool collection. The most agile boys compete at catching these graceful, gentle animals. Vicunas are harvested in paddocks thousands to … cut and let go. The cut allowed only adult animals and only partially. Vikun'jam cut back, leaving only a long wool where animals she needed to stay healthy-neck, abdomen, chest and legs. In fact, these delicate animals-relatives of alpacas, llamas, camels-no priruchaemy and does not live in captivity. This delicate collection of wool has become the key to prosperity of vicunas in these parts. The boundaries of "haircuts" shows you the long wild animals within two or three months. See vicuñas in the summer without a trace of haircuts-a rare phenomenon. But it is thanks to this tradition, vicunas can be observed here in large numbers and close enough in their natural Wednesday-endless Pampa.

Here, among the geological wonders of the most fanciful forms, blue, how precious Sapphire lagoons, still live several species of Flamingo. It is timid, cautious birds of threatened. Wings, legs, Flamingo feathers are still quite expensive goods at Magic markets. Birds know that from here good expect is not worth it, but because it is only necessary to begin to approach the lagoons, pink, light and graceful Flamingo run on the surface of the Lake and fly away, hugging purple wings sky. And it seems this land will live and prosper until even running around on her thin-legged vicuna, while over the Pampa commits flying Flamingo.

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At first glance, the Paracas peninsula is a vast desert where nothing. But only if you start enumerating that there are, it becomes clear that this first look wrong. Salt, sand, wind, Sun, Ocean, amazing biodiversity on land and in the water, a strange modern life of Peruvian fishermen, the millennial history of several cultures of mankind and paleontological discoveries that are waiting in the wings to tens of millions of years.


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Is not here-so it's good roads. This fact did not drawback is this unique territory, and even vice versa, becomes a huge plus when you find yourself face to face with this element, when the tiny fishing villages become a ghostly reminder of the existence of the rest of the world.

The peninsula has few formal roads, ways, they appear on the map. But since that is the Paracas salt desert, locals sometimes pave the way straight on salt sand Cork, which eventually becomes hard and shiny like ice. However, the desert also did not remain on the sidelines, occasionally winning commitment of man without demand. The road sweeps sand, sometimes they result in dangerous and unstable cliffs. Little mileage in 200 km is transformed into a real adventure.

In Parakase you can feel the movie's hero, literally, inside a very different world. And yet, here you can taste a delicious milky fish soup, hear the cries of sea lions, smell the colonies of seabirds and endure much more.

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