The Cordillera Blanca is snow ridge, part of the Andes mountain system, is it from North to South and thus divides the territory of central Peru into two sections-East and West. The highest point in Peru is located here. Eternal glaciers give the mountain a kaleidoscope array of Lakes the most different shades of blue and dark blue. This is an incredible and wonderful world that is changing very rapidly today in connection with global warming and human activity.

Cordillera Blanca

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The lagoons Varmikocha and Orkonokocha

Perhaps the most readily available from those that we today will show. Two huge Lakes, are drawn to each other through the Valley, connecting the East and West. Upper Lake Orkonokocha (literally "male Lake) has a height of 3860 meters after kilometer poured into bottom-Varmikocha (" female Lake)-height of 3850 meters, merged into one, the waters of these lakes are leaving the village of Yungay on the eastern slopes of the Cordillera and there fall into the waters of the river Santa ("Holy"). These lakes were venerated in ancient cultures residing on both sides of the mountains. And they symbolize (how it is not difficult to guess), the duality of nature and this duality merging into one. Today, Varmikocha and Orkonokocha are popular among tourists for its symbolism, but for awesome colors-each Lake your shade of Turquoise. Top-a bit smaller and a bit greener, and the bottom is almost entirely blue. Janganuko Gorge, hosts two Great Lakes, perfect its climate for Andean endemic polilepisa (unique tree of the Rosaceae family). And the polilepis thrives along described lagoons. These trees here reach incredible proportions, and their trunks have the freakish form!

Laguna 69

Amazing Lake color Sapphire, fueled by Chakrarahu glacier. Inability to drive up transport, and sufficiently serious height-4612 meters make Lagoon is more appetizing than another. Day trekking to the blue water becomes a small test, for which, however, each which had done the way receives a reward in the form of incredible mountain views and the lagoon, situated directly below the snowy and icy ledges, and then with a bang showered down. Almost the entire route of the travellers accompany the cow, which weathers the height and at an altitude of 4000 meters start owning little fur viskachej-wild relatives of chinchillas.

Laguna Palkakocha

Funny title of this Lagoon is a little distracting from his sad history and no less sad. Not so long ago in the year 1941, Palkaranka mountain in the earthquake dropped multi-ton piece of ice with ourselves-part of its glacier. Wave, caused by falling boulders ruined the bed of Lake and water rushed through the Valley in Huaraz, typing the path in itself rocks, chunks of dirt, ice and debris. Huaraz has undergone the strongest destruction, more than 6 thousand people died in the crash. Since then glacial lakes began to treat seriously and provide their protivoselevymi structures. Palkakocha has one of the most powerful of such systems and it, including making her one of the most interesting. Huge tube stretch for more than a kilometer from Lake dam in the Gorge, in the event of a new wave of unload thread make it uniform and not allow him to razrusht' Lodge. Today this beautiful bright blue lagoon is a clear example of climate change on the planet. Glaciers melting over it with incredible speed, and the size of the Lake, its depth and capacity change with each new year.

Laguna Iyaka

Jaka is available for visitors and lovers of mountains in two ways-on foot (a long way), or by car/motorbike (in this case, it would be a complete drive for machines and inexhaustible adventurism for motorcycle). The peculiarity of this Lagoon is a rapidly melting glacier descending from the eponymous shestitysjachnika Ranrapalka. Over the past thirty years the glacier Iyaka decreased twice, releasing almost three miles of alluvial debris and Morin. On this very liberated space today are new lagoons the color dirty milk. Here you can feel completely on another planet, come close to the glacier and listen to curdling sounds inside the caves.

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travel on a motorcycle in Peru

A year ago bought a new low-power Yamaha YB125 red, privarili stands for our belongings, loaded baggage, sat down with a friend and drove from the region of Amazonas South through mountain passes for 4700 meters above sea level, through beautiful valleys, through arid canyons. Let's see, where we will start our road and iron companion named friend.

Show a little Peruvian landscapes and roads:








Before the 4700









We bought a small motorcycle shop Yamaha in Chachapoyas Amazonas.
In defiance of fixed opinion (even among Peruvians) Amazonas is not just a jungle. A large area of the State is located in mountainous terrain above 2000 meters. Near Chachapoyas is very beautiful and ancient archaeological zone — the ruins of Kuelap is still on one of the ridges above 2500 m.


Even in this State there are huge and long cave with mountains of skulls and bones (the ancients apparently believed that the cave is the entrance to the posthumous world)


There are 3 in the world highest waterfall Gocta cataracts, height of about 700 meters, which fell one Korean through 2 weeks after we've been there. Naturally fell to his death, while falls have closed for a few weeks to visit.

There people drink Compote (chicha morada) of black corn, eaten shestipalyh guinea pigs (Kui), celebrated almost every week and generally very nice people.



Even earlier culture Chachapoja lived there. After they stayed on steep cliffs, sarcophagi inside where they buried their relatives. And often wonder how they zalazili so much.

Each year in July the race passes Chacha-Dakar. To participate in the competition attracts participants from all over Peru. Sometimes even prominent foreigners to turjenduro. The route passes through the mountains, country roads and villages.



We with our YB125 certainly not become a Chase. But we wanted to come back here and get 5 years later!
Soon the 3 months have passed, and we have had to go further in the direction of Uaraz and the National Park of Huascaran. That's about 1500 km on the town's roads.


One evening, we came to the little-known hot springs. Peppered alone, woke up in Moto-campsite! just night arrived on motorcycles and family they liked, as we are! :) Note — garbage. Trash here not only because people just throw (though), but because his dogs carry catwalk territory. Be aware that if you do not sort your rubbish and don't care about recycling, most likely is the same, just not at the nearest to you clearing.

Hot springs are a big pool, which pours from a pipe yellow jet of boiling water with the smell of iron. If you come to 4:00 am, you can only be together, meet dawn and plenty of napleskatsja, until the Sun started to fry.

Later already comes from the surrounding villages rebjatnja and starts to have fun and kick up mud from the bottom of the pool.

Sometimes we stayed directly in the field with a tent. And in the morning with the pleasure of seeing how the locals beat off from ears of wheat and greeted us with a smile.

Sometimes so steep serpentines and dangerous, that you start to pay attention to the signs.


In the next part we will get closer to the glaciers above 4500 meters above sea level.

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Sounded the siren in the small town of Baños De Agua Santa, informing about the danger of eruption of Tungurahua. The warning is posted in two languages: Spanish and Quechua …


Sounds of Ecuador to listen better in headphones. This 3D sounds.
Do not forget to include subtitles.

At night we go closer to the volcano, to consider this dangerous idea. Flying fireflies, frogs croaking, and at 7 kilometers from our tent rustles volcano. Sometimes it rattles, sometimes quieter. But the worst thing is when he calms down.
After a lull in the volcano as though explodes! Very well seen as flying stones and lava. The sky is illuminated by flashes, and the slopes of bottled bright orange lava. We should run away from there.

Transferred to the capital of Ecuador, Quito. There are people in the streets protesting at the rally and asked the Government to deal with the problems in the country.
Out there in the streets shouting "4 for 1 dollar" sellers, because the national currency is the American dollar.
Card players there in Central Park Nestled next to players and actively playing for money.
There regulirovshhicy whistles to attract the attention of drivers and show where they go.

Our next item-the town of Tena. Passes machine scavengers. Throughout Ecuador garbage trucks can be heard from afar and ahead of time to go out on the street with a bag of garbage.
The Zoo roam in enclosures, tapirs, ostriches, coati, the Galapagos tortoise. But hear you now local parrots.

Back in Quito. Guy passes by us, carrying a long metal rod.
We sit down to dinner in the same Park where Ecuadorians playing cards. For lunch, soup with crab. We give out a plate and a wooden hammer, so that you can get crab meat.
Sellers and clicked continue their workdays.
In the evening we sit down on the bus and go home. At each stop with the clatter and noise drops heavy metal ramp.

Let's hear together.



Cusco and Arequipa-two important not only in the region of the Inca Empire, not only the current state of Peru, but also in the way every traveler or tourist, presuming to know this country. Today from Cuzco in Arekipu can be reached very quickly, so without a dozen 500 km on a good paved road. You could even say that the way this very fast, too fast. In a country such as Peru, with a probability of 99 percent, you could find an alternative to rapid, good and boring roads. Just need to get off the asphalt and a fascinating study of unpaved roads.

Reportage prepared specifically for our friends Enjourney.ru.

To get from Cuzco in Arekipu, we decided to borrow a small piece of salt Inca path, which stretches nearly from the Sacred Valley to the Pacific coast. A thousand years ago, this way only do runners chaski, yes porters food. Today, of course, there's the road. Many of them are very old, nearly abandoned (and sometimes abandoned), and some are so new that it is not marked on the map. What unites them all is the absence of asphalt. Collect all these pieces of the roads in one route has proved to be difficult, but we have learned only on the ground.

Here we have put several of its high-altitude records-four pass over 5 thousand meters. Sometimes our way just disappeared (despite a strong line on the map). Motorcycle Elm in the sand, rocks and stones to cross the peremeshival River. Where expensive nowadays used only by herdsmen alpacas, rims linked soft dust whipped hundreds of times by thousands of feet of these soft, similar to huge toys, animals. Along the way we met Andean foxes and chinchillas relatives-viskachi.

We passed tiny village, consisting of only a few houses. Some of them had never seen foreigners, and one still opposite the Catholic Church sacred uanka stone flaunts that reminds you of that old beliefs here have not been pushed out to the end. We had waited out the storm in a closed Café in which we allowed out of kindness-to hide from the wind. Spend the night at an altitude of ambulance building intended for al'pakeros and miners, try Alpaca for the first time in his life and peek into the abyss right with a motorcycle.

As a result, our way-on first coats, became longer than asphalt not only at 400 kilometers, but almost a week of time, as well as a thousand and one impression anymore.

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Peru today is far from the title of the most developed country of the continent. " Peru-poor country and rich at the same time. And the wealth of its are innumerable, despite neblagoustroennost', and sometimes, even poverty.

Reportage prepared specifically for our friends Enjourney.ru.

Travel across the country with incredible historical heritage-it's like a little life in life. The only choice is to stay, sometimes accidentally, in a tiny village, and the stones begin to tell their story. Shortly after seeing your interest, you begin to talk and locals taking their narrations on the torn pages of history. After you're flabbergasted, you collect evidence bit by bit. But there, on the spot, all of this still-life, although it has been more than 500 years since the last highlights.

So it happened with us many times on our way to Peru. But special impression village Akira, in which we had to stay overnight because of thunderstorms and rain, razmyvshego dirt roads. We came to Akira already before dawn. In the dark it is no different from the medium-sized villages, where on the main square in the evening, the locals gather to eat soup, antikuchos and drink tea from grasses. The only thing we see is a good temper and radushnost' inhabitants. The same morning in the hotel room (with Tigers on blankets) seemed low mountains around the village, mud streets inside and raz'ezzhennaja clay after yesterday's rain everywhere. One object in the usual rustic landscape still going all out of the picture. Free-standing rock-right in the Centre of the village. Awesome and very strange.

Cost to take a course on this rock, Akira started to tell his story. Too many historical monuments, for such a small village: Baroque colonial church of San Pedro de Akira 17 century, the Palace of San Juan de Jakua, ruins of settlements and bellicose Akira Huari culture, and finally, the sacred uanka-rock-tombs with niches-transformed conquistadors to court, prison and execution site. These lands once were housed right "at hand" the great Inca Empire, only seventy miles from Cuzco. Still, until the arrival of the conquest, belonged to another of the powerful Wari culture, which conquered the local tribes. The sacred rock Sakiya Kaka was used before the arrival of the Spaniards, as an object of worship. Especially revered dead residents of mummified and seated in seating positions in natural niche, paying the face outwards so that the elders and after his death looked at their land, remaining witnesses all events. The Spaniards, treacherously stolen all burials, throwing a bone to the outside beneath the feet. Later in these niches until the 20th century were holding prisoners. With the conquistadors came the Inquisition, in which local residents died on this rock by the thousands in the worst agony.

The official date of the founding of the city by the Spanish still not installed. About-this is the second half of the 16 century. The surroundings were unbelievable Akira is rich in gold and silver, in addition to the Spaniards, the village became a convenient collection of taxes and tributes at the entrances to the great city of Cusco. In the 17-18 centuries was started and completed the construction of the massive Temple of San Pedro de Akira. Inside and outside of the building is decorated with fine carving, imitating paradise garden. Here, birds and animals made slaves-Indians by European sketches, still look at us with sad faces and personalities.

Crossing such places where the poor modern life shows traces of a great and tragic history, where almost every home grown flies the Rainbow flag, you if you become a part of this world, and it certainly becomes a part of you.

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